In a remarkable feat, experts have recreated the oldest known piece of true tartan ever discovered, offering people the chance to wear a piece of Scottish history. Found in a Highland peat bog around 40 years ago, the Glen Affric tartan, dating from 1500 to 1600, underwent extensive testing last year to verify its authenticity. The Scottish Tartans Authority confirmed its status as the oldest surviving true tartan, and it was previously showcased at V&A Dundee.
Under the guidance of tartan historian Peter E MacDonald, the House of Edgar, a tartan fabric manufacturer and distributor, has now successfully recreated the Glen Affric tartan for contemporary wear. The revival involved meticulous analysis of dyes present in the original material, revealing colors such as green, yellow, and red derived from woad or indigo for green, along with other natural dyes.
Emma Wilkinson, the designer at House of Edgar overseeing the project, expressed the significance of recreating this historical fabric: “Tartan is such an iconic piece of Scotland’s identity, and it has been a true pleasure to see this fabric come back to life to be enjoyed for generations to come.”
Peter E MacDonald, head of research and collections at the Scottish Tartans Authority, highlighted the privilege of examining the Glen Affric specimen, emphasizing the collaboration’s role in bringing back a tartan that provides a tangible link to history. The thorough process involved dye analysis, carbon-14 dating, and a detailed study of the original piece.
James Wylie, assistant curator at V&A Dundee, shared his excitement about the legacy of the Glen Affric tartan, now reinterpreted and made accessible by the Scottish Tartans Authority and House of Edgar. The recreated tartan allows individuals to connect with Scotland’s rich textile history, providing a glimpse into the past as it existed 500 years ago.