“Sleek” – the overarching theme of the show was boldly proclaimed on the invitation by Dolce&Gabbana, indicating a dramatic shift in the creative reign of the “mad duo” passionate about maximalism.
From the Fall/Winter collection of the previous year, the legendary design duo, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, infused a mysterious black hue into every distinctive creative element of the brand. Departing from vibrant and eye-catching colors, the Italian fashion house opted for a simplified yet assertive tone, retaining the rebellious spirit of maximalism, characterized by freedom and extravagance within the DNA of their designs. Despite this shift, the rebellious Italian men from the Dolce&Gabbana empire maintained the familiar seductive charm through sheer fabrics, exposed bare backs paired with underwear, and floor-sweeping coats. However, when the Menswear Fall/Winter 2024 show unfolded, the once rebellious Italian men brought about a transformation that seemed unbelievable. As one of the first fashion houses to showcase during Milan Menswear Fashion Week, the Italian brand delivered a surprisingly silent and understated opening.
Holding a black invitation card with the central inscription “Sleek,” attendees might have sensed and anticipated what was about to unfold. The keyword “sleek” led the audience into the realm of perfectly fitted suits designed for slender gentlemen, featuring simple yet meticulously crafted styles, carefully tailored seams, and premium fabrics. The sleek, upward-swept hairstyles were meticulously groomed and coated with glossy gel. Domenico Dolce shared with the press: “The theme of this collection is quite simple, revolving around true elegance. It embodies the exquisite beauty of craftsmanship and top-notch quality derived from our almost obsessive knowledge of traditional tailoring.”
The latest menswear collection from the Italian fashion house is indeed an approach to pure sophistication, embracing the essence of masculine beauty and serving as a nostalgic return to the brand’s historical legacy. From its early days, sartorial elegance and tuxedos have been intertwined with Dolce&Gabbana’s design DNA since the 1980s; the meticulous handmade tailoring techniques and masterful craftsmanship have consistently delivered quality to their designs. It is undeniable that the suits from the workshops of the Italian fashion house are among the finest in the industry.
“In reality, I was born in a tailor shop,” shared Domenico Dolce behind the scenes. “We want to focus on the classic innovation of bespoke tailoring,” continued Stefano Gabbana. Observing the runway from backstage, the design duo discussed the elimination of unrelated details to concentrate solely on exceptional tailoring. The “Sleek” on the invitation brought forth sharply tailored suits on the catwalk. The seriousness and the sense of dressing up for elegant evenings were encapsulated in tuxedos with silk-lined jackets, wide opera coats, and refined color palettes. Dolce consistently emphasizes the precision of tailoring, born from the son of a Sicilian tailor. Hence, the suits from Dolce&Gabbana Menswear Fall 2024 are crafted with exceptional precision, featuring slim proportions and completed with short boxy-cut jackets.
The collection invited fashion enthusiasts to explore the core of modern masculine beauty, bypassing the ordinary to appreciate the meticulous craftsmanship and intricacy in every small yet valuable detail. The 62 tuxedos exuded refined beauty, while the dazzling black double-breasted coats evoked the characteristic allure of James Bond, with balanced button arrangements, wrapped lapels, and the width of jacket vents providing classical aesthetics transcending time. Throughout the tuxedo parade, a sense of sophistication and absolute class from the early 20th-century gentlemen was evident.
The theme “Sleek” was intricately woven from silhouette to color. Throughout the collection, Dolce&Gabbana Menswear Fall 2024 predominantly featured suits dyed in a cold black hue, with only three white tuxedos, one camel-colored coat, another gray ensemble, and a few exquisite fur suits made from soft sheepskin. The voluminous fur coats, with floor-sweeping lengths, exuded romanticism and classic allure, described by the designers as “nobility akin to Visconti films, fitting for the wardrobes of Helmut Berger or a young Rudolf Nureyev.” The subdued gray palette was a means for the design duo to keep viewers focused on the impeccable tailoring skills of the Italians. Beyond animal prints, the Dolce&Gabbana gentlemen showcased their flair by adorning themselves with suits covered in sparkling sequins or lace prints full of floral beauty.
The Fall 2024 menswear collection by Dolce & Gabbana is a masterpiece of luxury, attesting to the brand’s commitment to breaking boundaries while maintaining a deep reverence for Italy’s traditional craftsmanship. Thus, the explored masculine beauty is intricately woven between modernity and classical lines, seamlessly combining two contrasting spirits to create an elegant and graceful fashion spectacle.