Dior’s Dual Narrative: Polished Paris Show Blends Glamour with Intellectual Exploration

The Dior haute couture catwalk show in Paris witnessed a surprising gridlock outside, caused by Rihanna’s unexpected arrival. Meanwhile, inside, Maria Grazia Chiuri, the creative director, delved into discussions about the gender politics of fabric as an art material and explored the relevance of Walter Benjamin’s essay in the context of the modern luxury industry.

Under Chiuri’s leadership, Dior has achieved unprecedented success in terms of size, profitability, and high-profile visibility, all while embracing radical values. The iconic Lady Dior and Book Tote bags coexist with feminist art campaigns featuring Judy Chicago. Dior’s red carpet presence extends to actors Natalie Portman and Jennifer Lawrence donning fairytale gowns, while runway collections narrate the overlooked history of women of color in fashion.

This apparent paradox of blockbuster entertainment coupled with intellectual soul-searching is working for Dior, making the fashion brand a reflection of the complex 21st-century world. Dior manages to infuse fun into the dichotomy, evident in Rihanna’s streetwear reinterpretation featuring a puffer jacket styled after Dior’s classic bar jacket.

Chiuri’s latest collaboration with textile artist Isabella Ducrot influenced the inflated scale of Rihanna’s jacket, drawing inspiration from Ottoman robes that exaggerate body size as a symbol of power. The collection’s silhouette, borrowing from Christian Dior’s 1952 La Cigale dress, combined 18th-century and 1950s influences. Polished ladylike aesthetics were evident, with portrait collars on jumpsuits and double strands of pearls worn choker-tight.

The homage to Monsieur Dior’s design included removing padding from the hips, reflecting the evolution of women’s lives and the changing world. Chiuri emphasized that the world of haute couture is not just about personal preferences but is a poetic expression with depth, challenging the perception of fashion as superficial. As high-profile productions on Cristóbal Balenciaga and Christian Dior hit screens, Chiuri sees them as opportunities to contextualize and broaden the understanding of fashion beyond its visual appeal.