In a captivating exploration of the life of the renowned Spanish couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga, Disney+ presents a lavish new miniseries that goes beyond the famous name to delve into the man behind the fashion legacy. The six-episode series not only promises thrilling entertainment but also offers a unique opportunity to closely examine the master’s work through meticulous recreation. Fashion historian Miren Arzalluz and Oscar-nominated costume designer Bina Daigeler share their insights into the challenges of bringing Balenciaga’s exquisite couture to life for Vogue.
The decision to title the miniseries “Cristóbal Balenciaga” instead of simply “Balenciaga” reflects a deliberate choice to emphasize the exploration of the man behind the iconic brand. The production aims to shed light on one of the most enigmatic figures in fashion history, presenting more than 22 replicated designs that faithfully continue the couturier’s legacy.
Bina Daigeler, known for her precision in costume design, collaborated with Miren Arzalluz, the current director of the Palais Galliera and a respected authority on Balenciaga. Together, they faced the intricate challenge of faithfully reproducing the couturier’s creations. “It was like making two films at the same time. On the one hand, we had to recreate all the couturier’s designs, and on the other, make the costumes for each of the characters,” says Daigeler.
Recreating Balenciaga’s designs, spanning from early impeccable creations to later, seemingly simple yet technically challenging masterpieces, required meticulous attention to detail. The duo encountered challenges in reproducing the voluminous designs, considering the changes in textiles since Balenciaga’s era. Arzalluz notes, “Construction is important, but the materials that Balenciaga used to execute his architectural, sculptural approach, with his tremendous knowledge of the behavior of fabrics, becomes an issue.”
One of the primary difficulties was replicating the volumes Balenciaga achieved, especially given the evolution of textiles. “You have to bear in mind that he developed his own textiles in collaboration with specialized manufacturers, and in many cases, these fabrics no longer exist today or have almost fallen into disuse,” Arzalluz explains.
Daigeler emphasizes the importance of using original fabrics to maintain authenticity, even though finding identical textiles proved challenging. “The silks are silks and the wools are wools because thanks to how the light hits them or the way they fall on a body, you’ll notice if we don’t use the original fabrics,” she points out.
The comprehensive replication process involved not only the couturier’s designs but also the costumes for each character. Daigeler had five months to create all the replicas and individual garments, making the project akin to “making two films at once.” Despite the challenges, the collaboration between Daigeler and Arzalluz, who share a deep understanding of Balenciaga’s legacy, proved instrumental in bringing the miniseries to life.
The series, set to premiere on Disney+ on December 19, promises a psychological journey, not just in replicating garments but in understanding the context and inspiration behind each design. Daigeler expresses her fascination with Balenciaga’s innovative creations, stating, “Our work has been very psychological because you don’t simply replicate the garments, you have to understand them.”
While Miren Arzalluz acknowledges the challenge of conveying her knowledge neutrally, both experts share a profound admiration for Balenciaga’s avant-garde creations. As the miniseries aims to inspire a new generation, it is evident that, with or without “Cristóbal,” there is only one Balenciaga whose timeless designs continue to captivate fashion enthusiasts worldwide.